So, I'm sure a large portion of us have done the most terrible thing anyone could possibly do: Spend money.
Since I've recently decided in a conversation with myself that the best way to go about this is NOT to convince people to not spend money, I've decided to at the very least give our club the upper hand when it comes to buying. However, there's a few important details that you absolutely HAVE to understand to be able to use the buyer's guide Gold per Dollar Chart.
It assumes you have already purchased bundled tanks.
It converts the cost of slots on an individual purchase price, 250 Gold.
It converts premium time at the first truly economic purchase level of 180 days, or 56 gold a day.
The sale price of tanks in credits is what the chart uses to find the gold reimbursement if you already own said tank.
Credits are converted to gold at a rate of 400:1
Now that we know those important things, on to the chart. It sorts the total worth of the bundle by GOLD PER DOLLAR, but this means it sorts by the gold equivalent of the things in the bundle as compared to the purchase price. The higher the number, the more economically efficient the bundle is, but don't buy a Warchest if you want 35,000 gold.
Also, for a chart updated with current bundles, click HERE.
Tanks (Sale Price)
Make It Yours Bundle
Gold Pack X-Large
Gold Pack Large
Untouchable E 25
Gold Pack Medium
Gold Pack Small
Gold Pack X-Small
Effective gold per dollar isn't the only thing at work here, but in general you should only buy a bundle if you see a high G/$ and a low cost.
AVOID BUYING THE $5, $10, or $20 gold packages, they are terrible deals. Save up for other bundles or go out to eat or something.
The STARTER BUNDLE is trash. Don't buy under any circumstances.
The ESSENTIALS KIT is only worth it for smoothing out larger purchases.
It also pays to know what you're buying gold for, such as a popular commodity like premium days.
Let's take the following situation into mind:
Little Jimmy just got his birthday money of $75, and wants to get a bunch of premium time so that he can get from tier 7 to tier 10 faster than his friend Bobby, whose parents don't let him spend money on worthless internet things.
Jimmy also owns the three tanks in the Collector's Bundle, which means purchasing it nets him 4200 Gold and 3 days of premium time, as well as 3 garage slots.
Budget = $75
Goal = Premium Time
Option 1: Buy a Large Gold Pack of 16,000 Gold, a Medium Gold Pack of 6,075 Gold, and an Extra Small Gold Pack of 1400 gold.
Total: 23,475 Gold
Max Premium Time: 432 Days, or 5.76 premium days per dollar.
Max Premium Time: 435 Days, or 5.8 premium days per dollar.
15 Bundled Days, 1x 360 Days, 2x 30 Days
Same budget, same cost, but Option 2 gives little Jimmy 50 more days of premium time. However, if he goes with Option 3, he can get 15 garage slots, which totals out to 3,750 gold.
But, if Little Jimmy begs his Uncle Trevor for 20 bucks more, he can buy an Extra Large 34,000 Gold Pack for $95, which he can buy 730 days of premium with. This nets him a cool 7.68 days a dollar, and the extra 248 days of premium only cost him $20 more.
Now consider another common situation:
Rick Johnson wants an FV215b 183, but he only has a tier 7 unlocked on that line, and hated it with a passion to the point he rage sold it. That means he needs a total of 705,000 free XP. Rick is also smart, and grinds other lines while he waits for the events that net him 35 Free XP per gold, rather than the usual 25. He also doesn't want to pay for the tank out of pocket, so he wants to buy credits as well, all 6.1 million of them. Rick also owns the E25 in the Uncatchable Bundle, which means purchasing it nets him 9400 Gold and a garage slot.
TOTAL: 19400 Gold, 10 Million Credits, 1 Garage Slot
RESULT: Rick has to grind 17500 more free XP, but has 3.9 million extra credits after the FV215b 183 purchase to buy another tank.
OPTION 3: Buy one TIER X - Make It Yours bundle, one Large 16,000 Gold bundle
RESULT: Rick can buy everything he needs, no leftovers.
As you can see, it's a battle of give and take, but there are ways to get more bang for your buck. For more Blitz financial advice, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I'll try to optimize your budget. Just make sure to include your preferred currency (Credits, Free XP, Premium Time or Gold) and your budget, and I'll do my best to get you the most for your money. This free service is included with your MOMbership benefits.
So, like many people, I've read the lovely Google-translated supertest notes on DK's blog, CLICK HERE if you haven't.
Now, a certain part got me interested, and I'd like to spread my thoughts onto this piece of gossip toast. It's not the lovely T57 Heavy buff, or the STB-1's return from the graveyard of unnecessary tanks, but the little blurb that says:
*long range mode - reduce mobility by 50%, accuracy, shot dynamic, increase 50%
Which, as a World of Tanks fanatic, has me buzzing about the possibility that they'll be adding in a copy of a nice little familiar feature to Blitz.
That feature is known as Siege mode on PC, and what it does is allows a few Swedish tank destroyers with a hull-locked gun to "set up" and use its real-life hydraulic suspension driven gun elevation and depression mechanic, with a major buff to its aim time, reload, accuracy, and more.
While I definitely don't think you'll be elevating your KV-4 gun with its tracks any time soon, I do think that this mode will allow tank destroyers to "set up" and sacrifice most of their mobility for a buff on firing stats like aim time and accuracy. It will most likely take 3-5 seconds to enter and exit, and will probably be an equipment slot interchangable with binocs if the notes are to be believed.
Oh, and they're adding the other American light tank line, the one with a bunch of autoloaders and a KV-2 that goes 70 kilometers an hour. But that's old news, and therefore boring to me, especially as I've played them and the T49 kinda sucks.
What are your thoughts on this new firing mode? Would you use it, and what would you use it on? Or would you have prefered to have stuck with the status quo of binocs-and-net for your TDs?
This entry is intended to help you find a good platoon mentor to help you improve your game, if you're so inclined.
Everyone knows the local unicrumb population, and a lot of people decide to platoon with these people to get better. However, there's quite a bit of variation in the various breeds of unicombs. A winrate of 84% looks awesome, right? Before you follow that player to the ends of the earth, make sure to check the following guide to unicreamsicles, because you might be finding yourself tooned with a cheap Chinese knockoff like this guy:
Now, I've got to admit, this is blatant plagiarism of the official forums, but it's good info that seems to get buried all-too-often. This guide was written by Zennosha, all credit goes to him/her/it/apache-attack-helicopter. I inserted my own comments onto each criteria as well.
Levels of Unicums: WoT BLITZ
-A discussion of the types and levels of the "top players" in this game. Mostly those who can dedicate a large amount of time and money to the game. I will not use any examples, but when you read the description for each one, you will know.
Walmart Brand Unicums:
-We will start off with one of the most annoying type of unicum, the unicum with a huge head, and only decent stats. These are the ones who lurk in the 50-65% WR zone and have a small amount of purple stats, a large amount of blues and greens, and most importantly, flash their stats like a minimum wage worker who somehow can afford Gucci and Armani. Now why the name "Walmart Brand?" Well, like stuff from Walmart, they pretend to be the real deal, but always have a funny taste or are too good to be true. If you don't have a big head, you're automatically better than any Walmart Unicum.
Dan: Avoid these people in general, they're the main source of toxicity in the community in my opinion.
-These are any players who are making an effort to be good at the game, are getting the hang of it, and realize they can always learn. They are normally very fun and easy to get along with.
-Their stats are anywhere from:
1.3-1.5 Damage Ratio
2.0+ K/D Ratio
1300-1700 Average Damage
All Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8 (but barely)
Recent Values may be slightly higher
-These players are reliable from tiers 1-10, but do make plenty mistakes per game.
Dan: Good platoon mates, generally can help with mid-tiers, but lack some knowledge on game mechanisms and/or map locations. Some could benefit from rerolling, but not until 30 day stats vastly outperform overall stats and a large battle count.
- A reliable unicum is one who has a greater knowledge of the game, and then turns towards working on stats. Their attitudes can very greatly from off putting to helpful, so get to know them.
-Their stats range from:
1.5-1.9 Damage Ratio
2.5+ K/D Ratio
1500+ Average Damage
All Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8 (mid between Unicum and Super Unicum)
Recent WR will be in the low 70% range, and other values will be higher as well
-These players are the platoon mate you always turn to, and can carry from time to time in any tier 1-10, make a mistake every game or so, but do not specialize in any tanks or tiers. They can also still have tanks that are the bane of their existence, and will have an occasional bad game.
Dan: These guys are fun to toon with, and generally are the folks more "aware" of their surroundings, maps, allies, and reds, even if they still struggle slightly with game mechanics and micromanaging their tank. Can still learn from platooning with better players. These players are good at realizing their own playstyle mistakes, but often misjudge others.
Almost a Super Unicum:
-These are your more seasoned players, who have a great knowledge of the game, have decent situational awareness, and may specialize in a certain tank. They are very reliable platoon mates, but are somewhat hard to find. They may hold a few Top 100 tanks and have large amounts of purple as well as a bit of dark purple.
- Their Stats range from:
1.8+ Damage Ratio
2.75+ K/D Ratio
1800+ Average Damage
All Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8, and 1 or 2 in the Super Unicum range
Recent WR is a is a constant 70-80% range
Damage ratios exceed 2.0+ in recent
K/D Ratio is 3.0+ recently
-These players are very good at tier 1-9, but may still have difficulty at tier X. They may make a mistake per game at most.
Dan: These players are good mentors at 1-9, and are very aware of what they (and their team) are doing at any given point. Good at figuring out where they, and sometimes the person being mentored, make mistakes. Will usually destroy lower tiered tanks without being scratched, so avoid them if at all possible when bottom tier. Generally know how to play any given tank well, but specialize in using the defining features of a select few tanks only.
Super Unicum Sealclubber:
-These Players are amazing, but for some reason stay at the super low tiers, from tier 1-4.
- Beware when trying to have some low tier fun, as these players have thousands upon thousands of games in low tier OP tanks, some may have over 30k games in just one tank. Now that's some love and dedication.
Their stats range from:
5.0+ K/D Ratio
3.0+ Damage Ratio
All Super Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8 (super inflated because of tier)
80-90% WR in individual tanks
1000+ games in a low tier tank, their main focus is low tiers
- Have fun playing against these guys, they will rek you if you expect them to me normal brainless pubbies.
Dan: Avoid these people as "mentors", they typically aren't much better than the typical "good" or "great" player. Typically don't do well in high tiers, and get discouraged somewhere between tiers 6 and 8 from advancing further, and instead rack up thousands of battles in tiers 1-4. You can usually subtract 20% off of their overall winrate to find their winrate in tiers 8+. If you are in this category and don't like it, I reccomend selling any tank you own below tier 5 to truly progress in the game.
-Ah yes, the ones you dread seeing on the enemy team, you know they are going to make your life difficult, and more than likely are together with an equally great player...
-These players specialize in all tiers 1-9, and although they may hate a tank, they still can beat you in it any day. They have very few weaknesses regardless of the tank, and more than likely hold records or at least Top 10 in a few tanks. They are also at least Top 100 in all their recent tanks.
-Awesome platoon mates, but are very hard to find, or even platoon with.
-As for tier X, they are also very good, but not legendary status.
Stats Range from:
2.0+ Damage Ratio
3.0+ K/D Ratio
2000+ Average Damage
All Super Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8 overall, and in tier 1-9
Dan: Most are fantastic mentors, can turn any tank to their will and point out their own (rare) mistakes, and will usually be willing to do so for others. Can share valuable information about game mechanics, armor use, etc. if asked. The part I exclude when I say "most" are the saltiest players you will ever meet, who blame everyone and everything else as to why they aren't in the top 500 or so players in the game.
Super Unicum High Tier Sealclubber:
- These players meet the same requirements as a Super Unicum, but their focus is Tier X oriented.
- They very rarely make a mistake even at Tier X, (maybe 1 mistake every 2-3 games)
- They have all dark purple Tier X stats and are Top 100 in all tier Xs they play.
- Their Stats:
Tier X- 70%+ WR and 3000+ AVG DMG
All Super Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8 in all tiers, and especially Tier X
- These high tier sealclubbers are very hard to find and play at only certain hours, you pretty much need an appointment or need to be a regular platoon mate for them to even consider.
Dan: These are generally great players (some of the best in the game according to some), but good luck platooning with them. You need at least two reccomendations from other unicums, a resume, $400 in non-sequential bills, four rerolls, have been playing the game for at least twice as long as it has existed, a sacrificial virgin goat, and a fairly pricey ballpoint pen in order to sign your soul over to them. Not to mention they're only available between 3AM and 6AM Eastern time (no joke) and 90% of them are jack***es, so good luck.
God Level Unicum:
-Wait what? You thought that it all stopped at Super Unicum? No no no, even among the Supers, there are those that rise above, those that do what seems virtually impossible.
-You will more than likely take a picture of killing one of these, almost like a trophy kill.
-They hold #1 records in one form or another for certain tanks, and are ranked Top 10 in almost everything they play. When they pick up a new tank, a new record is set.
-They are also specialists of tier X
-Their Stats can Consist of:
2200+ Average Damage
2.25+ Damage Ratio
3.5+ K/D Ratio
Much Higher than even Super Unicum STAR1, WN7, WN8, hold records in this as well.
78-90% WR or even higher, not even 100% is the limit for them
3000+ Recent AVG DMG
3.0+ Recent DMG Ratio, even up to the 4.0-8.0+ Range
K/D Ratio that is absolutely ludicrous, ranging from 6.0-35.0+ depending on tier
-Record Setting/ Individual Tanks:
They hold many records, many Top 10 positions, and even tier X records
You will see many 90%+ Tanks
You will see many 3000+ AVG DMG tanks, and even a few 4000+ AVG DMG
Tier 7 and below- 90%+ WR, and somewhat impossible damage for its' tier, 4.0+ DMG Ratio, 10.0+ K/D Ratio
Dan: These gentlemen are the best of the best. (Or complete jackwagons, it's really a flip of a coin.) Half of these players usually platoon only with themselves, suffer from extreme narcissism, and will not stoop to help those they deem "unworthy". The other half will single-handedly drag you from a 37% winrate to a 64% winrate if you're decent enough to them, and make guides that are much better than my own.
What are stats, anyways? Stats are a reflection on your performance in battle despite having to take care of a bunch of random drooling puppies with the assistance of your team over a long period of time. The most effective way to get better stats? Do some research, like reading this blog. In this post, I'll sum up how to interpret and improve your stats. Win rate will not be discussed in this article, because if these stats go up, so will your winrate.
Let's take a moment to bust some stat myths.
It's all on the noob teams/others just get better MM than me.
I'm gonna put that one to rest right now. No. Just no. We all get the same teams, MM doesn't give a rat's behind about the difference between one end of the winrate scale and the other.
I just suck at the game.
Nobody inherently sucks at anything, you're just a pessimist.
I've got a bad device for playing.
Blitz is available for any mobile or semi-mobile smart device you own, and if you can't afford a better one, there's more productive things you could be doing than playing some dumb phone game that shortens your lifespan and destroys brain cells.
I'm going down a bad line.
You don't have to play any specific tank at all, and you're the one that picked it, suck it up and do your best or sell the tank and move on.
Alright, so everyone's talking about average damage all the time, so I made a handy chart based on every single tank in the game to guide you through the tiers.
Explanation time: To be considered a completely average player in each tier, you want to shoot for these numbers. These numbers are likely to net you a 1.00 STAR1 or a 900-1200 WN8 rating, but these metrics are also on a per-tank basis, so results may vary. If you're looking to become a better player, check this chart here:
Now, if you line up your personal overall average tier and damage, like I do below, you can see if you are above or below the line. The farther above the line you are at your average tier, the better.
If you do that, all that matters is where that vertical line hits the average damage line and where your dot is. The distance between the two dots should be a fairly good indication of your skill level.
Wn8 and STAR1 are both heavily influenced by average damage. (>40% of STAR1 is damage dealt)
"But Dan, I'm below the line, or not as far above it as I wish I was!"
Fret no more, MOMrade, the answer is here, in the next section. If all else fails, play a high damage tank for a long time.
The simplest, easiest way to become a better player is merely to survive more. I'll use my own stats for example. My personal survival rate is pretty good, at 52.41%. As you all are probably aware because I'm a bit of a narcissist, my winrate is hovering at around 67.5%. Assuming I only survive wins, which is a pretty decent assumption considering I abhor Supremacy mode, that means I only win 67.5% - 52.41% = 15.09% of battles I die in. That's a pretty powerful figure, I believe. That means out of every 20 deaths, I lose all but three of those games.
So, with that in mind, my friends, I'd like to introduce some light reading material in the form of past blog posts.
The above article describes how to better use your armor, whether it's in a Tiger P or an ST-I.
Now, let's check your stats again, and this time look at your average spots per battle. If it's over about 1.5, you're most likely being way too aggressive, and would benefit from putting the foot on the brakes a bit more often.
Kill/death ratio is related directly to this as well, but isn't a good metric for this game (just think >1).
Damage ratio is also a good indicator on whether or not you're being effective in game. It is exactly as it sounds, and you really would want this stat to be over 1, as this indicates you do as much damage as you take. The higher the number, the more effective you are with your tanks. Effectiveness has many factors, such as penning, DPM, alpha damage, and the type of tank you play.
Penetration - If you fling more gold ammo, it's a dirty but effective way to increase your damage ratio, if not your average damage. However, taking a look at this ammunition article could help you make better shot choices:
DPM - DPM is Damage Per Minute, and is the single most important statistic of a gun after penetration. The higher your DPM, the better you are at taking out tanks at your own level and below. DPM can be increased through the use of food provisions, Improved Ventilation and Tank Gun Rammer equiptment, and certain crew skills.
Alpha Damage - Alpha is the labeled average damage for a gun. You get a +/-25% roll on this every time a shot is fired, to simulate the manufacturing unreliability. If you're city-fighting and can peek-a-boom effectively, higher Alpha is key, as you have to spend less time in the open to do the same amount of damage. However, if you're in an open field or are forced into being exposed for long periods of time, high rate of fire and high DPM are much more effective (Play the KV-1 w/ the 85mm gun in cities and peek-a-boom or run enemies down in the open with the 57mm ZiS gun).
Tank Type - Tank destroyers inherently have higher damage ratios, as they have less HP to begin with, sit in the back, and have big/powerful guns that do a lot of damage. Light tanks, not so much. If you're trying to improve this, try playing a support tank like a tank destroyer or a heavy medium.
Seal clubbing's fun and all, I enjoy it as well, but don't be a General_Big_Ben. I mean, seriously, the guy has close to 14,000 battles in his Cruiser IV.
Try to get this average tier rating at or above 6, as this will help make a good impression not only on other players, but on your own skill, as higher tiers are harder to win in.
That's about all for now, and you've got homework this time: On your next grind, try to keep each tank at a 10% higher survival rate than the same tier in your last grinded line. (i.e. if you just got the IS-4 and you want the IS-7, keep your KV-1s survival rate 10% higher than the T-150, or the IS at 10% higher SR than the KV-3, etc.)